Day 26 – Danke Dresden

Posted: October 16, 2014 in Travel

For Sale One slightly used Weather App. Incompatible for any OS > 1. Apparently. Correct every 23rd day. Will trade for poke in the eye.

You know in Aussie land when you want it to rain and the forecast gives you that faint hope and then steals it away at the last minute. Exact opposite here. Noah is hammering away all night because it is going to RAIN tomorrow( not just showers or drizzle) . Because the moon, if you could see it, is still out at 10 am over here you tend to dress according to forecast not gut feel. To be fair my gut has some added insulation now anyway. So dressed like NotN we set off on our day trip to Dresden with the great unwashed. Lining up for these tours we always pass the time by picking out which couple is going to be the biggest pain in the ass on tour. A stern looking Frau was an early contender but completely blown out of the water by the old couple of Yanks once we actually tried to board bus after waiting ten minutes for two late arrivals – yes you win the prize. Now lets call them Billy Bob and Bitchface. Coupon clearly stated convert to ticket at meeting point. They didn’t. So we board the bus handing over our tickets. Now already GU (great unwashed) tend to rush the bus as if there are only 33 seats for the 40 passengers. BBB were in front of us and handed over coupon where upon asked to step aside to get ticket – ” we have been waiting for you to turn up and held everyone up” ” No no, we are getting on the bus” and simply keep moving forward head down.

So it is 180 k to Dresden and so we are somewhat interested but mainly bored by the history lesson given to us on the way. Thank me there was a toilet break after 100 k. Now for some reason there was a largish Hebrew contingent on tour who had their own guide so everything was spoken twice ! Every time he spoke I though someone was choking on their pretzel or about to spit in my general direction. Anyhoo, fascinated followers hanging on edge of seat- yes the clouds were dark and it looked gloomy indeed.

Until we got to Dresden and it cleared. Now I have to say in general we are very lucky weather wise on holidays. We often turn up at destination to light rain but by time we want to go out – you know after CLP has unpacked my bag and hung my clothes – it clears up. Dresden was no different despite its own specific dreary forecast

And lucky for us as it is a beautiful city indeed. Of course before getting off bus we were told we would split into two groups . One with the FEMALE English speaking guide and one with the MALE phlegm thrower. Pretty simple eh. So 10 minutes into the first building with spiel fuck me if BBB don’t wander over with phlegm boy saying these two should be with you. Groans all round. Let’s start spiel again

Anyway they could not spoil the day. About a 90 minute walk around with guide of the main attractions and then 3 hrs to ourselves. Heaven on a stick. The bombing of Dresden appears to be a dark day for Allies basically being tit for tat for bombing a beautiful English city – Canterbury or Coventry? Not sure, tend to wander off when guides start speaking

So having taken all requisite shots we settled in for a couple of Schnitzels and cold beers before wandering the streets at leisure. We saw a restaurant called Ayers Rock which we had to check out – especially the 5 Euro Lemingtons!
The bus was going to leave at 4:30 pm. Yeah right. BBB were last to arrive but we did actually leave only about 5 mins late.

Luckily the last organised tour of our trips , and maybe lives.

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Day 25.2 – A Festivus Miracle

Posted: October 15, 2014 in Travel

Last night was such a goodun it deserved its own post. We had booked dinner in the TV tower on what turned out to be a lovely night. The view was superb and the meal certainly satisfactory, not stunning. Plenty of wine though. From there we had planned to pass one or two buildings that were lit up for Festival of Lights. Instead we walked to about 6, so stunning was the spectacle. Pictures cannot do them justice but let’s give it a go anyway

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Day 25 – Segways Rock

Posted: October 14, 2014 in Travel

Our apartment was fine for our needs and located in a great area near Checkpoint Charlie. After a big day it was good to get some sleep but have to say the traffic noise may be a problem when not so tired, even though on 7 th floor. It is I. A busy part of town with a lot of night life I suggest.

A nice light breakfast set us up for the 30 min walk to the Television Tower for our 4 hr Segway Tour. And the skies were grey and a tad leaden. Forecasts were not promising. This is our 3rd Segway tour together and we simply love them as a way to see the highlights quickly and then return to selected sites for longer visit . Berlin is a flat city so great for Segway with plenty of bicycle lanes. Ok, you assholes on bikes here is another clip around the ear for you- get off the bloody footpath and use the designated lanes ya clowns. A couple of nervous moments crossing busy roads mind you but we all made it.

Anyhoo our guide Walid from City Segway was great. He was an openly gay man from Bangladesh and had a quick wit and encyclopaedic knowledge on Berlin history. We had a group of about 9 in all which was about the max you would want. We saw many highlights over the tour and will return to most. The most impressive aspect though is what we learnt about this rather fascinating city and country. There is always renovating or building going on so a lot of scaffolding around. Walid’s favourite joke usually was this building was built in 1839 and again in 2006. Obviously there was also a lot of damage during WW2.

The weather remained ok during our tour and dare I say may have even become almost passable temperature wise. We had our first , and likely last, Currywurst for lunch which was fine especially washed down with a cold beer. Tonight we have a prebooked dinner atop the TV tower so hopefully any rain stays away.

All in all an excellent first day in Berlin which left us with several places to explore further in coming days. But first a day trip to Dresden tomorrow.

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After another lovely meal last night at Da Gustino it was time to leave our Italian paradise and place our lives in the hands of trains and planes again. But first the drive to Pesaro station where our train left right on time for the 3.5 hr trip to Milan. We bid farewell to our wonderful hosts vowing to return again. For some reason Suzanne immediately ran out into the traffic screaming. By arrival in Milan it was piddling down and considered a taxi to Linate Airport but when told quote of 60 Euro ventured out into the rain bumping a few umbrella selling Indians out of the way in search of the shuttle bus – for 5 Euro each! Once safely on board it was a relatively short trip to airport and then the check in process started. We were flying to Berlin on two legs sadly and first had to get to Frankfurt on German Wings – the Lufthansa version of Jetstar I guess only smaller. We were early yes but the one girl at the counter was a little on the slow side and then informed us to come back later – with big bags in tow – as she could not check us through to Berlin yet. So a quick bite to eat at a rather inefficient ” My Chef” which seems to set the standard for this airport. There appears to be a massive number of high end stores in the airport but the actual flying caper seems very low key and minimal. We got our bags checked in finally then had to work out how to get to the gates! Once worked out the system in place – a very loose term in Italy – it was easy enough . Then came the 90 minute wait to board. There was also a layover in Frankfurt so not hitting Tegel Airport until 7 pm – if all went to plan!

The first leg was fine and maybe we were seeing the first signs of German efficiency kicking in. Although there were buses out to our plane and again on arrival it all went well. The plane was small, as in narrow, but comfortable and we even got a cuppa and cake in our 55 minute flight. Frankfurt is of course a very large airport but as we were on a connecting flight no need to go through security again so arrived in plenty of time for next flight. Then the next pleasant suprise of the day – free fast wifi!

Our flight to Berlin left about 20 minutes late . Weather looks a bit dodgy next few days , hope ok tomorrow for our Segway !

Day 23 – Sniffing out a Good Time

Posted: October 12, 2014 in Travel

The Autumn from hell continued unabated with clear skies and warm days. October in Europe? Bring your warm gear! My one pair of shorts were looking a bit threadbare. And obviously shrinking as they were getting tighter each week.

GHs x 2 were always interested in new adventures to suggest to guests – you know, the paying kind. As such we were invited along on a truffle hunt today in the nearby village of Fratte Rosa. I was a bit concerned I was expected to dress up as the dog which would have been difficult in this weather although at least had been neutered many years ago. Luckily though dog and English speaking guide were included in the price. We met our very pleasant guides – Luigi and his son Michele – and set off for the nearby forest with one dog champing at the bit. Now the two men were dressed in camouflage fatigues and Luigi had a rather nasty looking digging/slashing device. As he was the non English speaking guide there was a concern that Wolf Creek 3 may unfold here.

Once in the forest though their attire became understandable and wish I had not gone for the fishnet stocking look. Rover scampered off as dogs do and was sniffing with gay abandon. No , not other dogs’ backsides but rather the ground everywhere. Pretty soon he had found something and then Luigi pounced as can’t let the dogs actually get the truffles. He was suitably rewarded for having found his first one of the day – a small white truffle. For the next hour or so we trekked through the forest as Rover uncovered at least another dozen including some rather large black ones. All the time Michele was filling us in on the methods used and history – all interesting stuff. At the end of our short hunt apparently we had 72 grams worth and they sell for about 700 Euro per kg. (I rinsed my socks when we got home and made $12.50).Then it was back to their house for a sampling of a variety of local traditions , some using truffles obviously. And a couple of bottles of wine….

This was the highlight for me as we were warmly welcomed into their family home and sat at the kitchen table eating and drinking and nodding a lot at the Italian being spoken. Luigi was just one of those likeable easy going bear type of a man with a warm smile. The sons , just past teenage years, were obviously respectful of adults and it gave us an insight into the strong family structure in Italy. Michele had a pierced eyebrow – that his mother had done. He had also been out to the disco the night before until 3 am but still did his job perfectly well. We purchased some rather delicious tapenade for later consumption and then back to our home on the hill for some R&R and some light eats before dinner tonight at a nearby restaurant . Check out the website
for Luigi and his crew

Ciannitartufi

Like our stay in Spain with friends it had been a simply wonderful experience to live like a local for a couple of days and experience traditional food and life rather than more tourist haunts. Then come home to luxurious and peaceful surroundings. A man could get used to this. My waistline on the other hand….

Tomorrow it is a car trip, a train trip and two flights over 12 hrs which will hopefully see us in Berlin around 8pm

Day 22 – Down to the Sea

Posted: October 12, 2014 in Travel

CLP was happy. Had been able to do two washes and now cook a hot breakfast . If there had been an ironing board handy she would have been in seventh heaven.

Ouch, someone just slapped me in the face!

Ok , now I was awake it was time to head out for the day where we were going to follow the Adriatic Sea for a while along the Coast stopping for lunch as we go. Luckily we had a car or may not be back to write this

First we stopped at Flashnhome where we had a walk around the town for 10 minutes. Two circuits actually but a lovely little village. We stopped for a very nice coffee too. GH1 ordered, GH2 paid, I drank. It was white, then it was brown, then it was down. Then it was off along the cliff tops to Gibas for lunch

Ok this was officially a stunning place and could well be World Heritage listed next week. We parked our moped between the Ferrari and the Porche and wandered to our table Under the Tuscan Sun – if we had actually been in Tuscanny that is. The view was superb and the food sublime. Photos do not do justice let me tell you – especially with a new camera we were still learning about. A leisurely couple of hours were spent discussing peace in the Middle East and other weighty topics before it was time to head north again. I almost embarrassed myself – again- first though. Roberto bought out a small dish at the end with what looked like 4 pepper mints on it. I thought well it is almost ” wafer thin” why not. About to reach over and grab one when he started trickling water over them. Ok, after dinner entertainment I guess. But, lo and behold, they began to rise like a Phoenix and become the 4 Towers. They were actually warm hand/face wipes like you get on planes! Ya really owe it yourself to travel folks.

Some more beautiful spots to stop along the way as we continued to follow the Coast North. I know I could never live here because I would kill a cyclist a week at least. They are simply and largely arrogant pricks. Along a narrow road going downhill they will ride 4 abreast with no intention of forming a single file! Occasionally there may be a young lady in Lycra you feel the need to stop and help get her leg over but generally they are oafish ignorant clowns that think they have a god given right to ride wherever they want. Whereas clearly I have that duh.

Finally it was home and as there had been the requisite break while driving it must have been drinkies time again. Some bubbles and then some more red from the vat Earle must have hidden somewhere and it was time to crawl up the stairs to bed. Tonight I say we swap floors if this drinking nonsense keeps going:)

Today we go Truffle Hunting apparently with an elephant or some animal leading the way I believe. Should be interesting.

There could be wine tasting involved afterwards….

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Another impressive breakfast buffet greeted us on a leisurely morning awaiting our 10 am train to Fano. I do love saying Fano! But first we had to walk amongst the teeming masses dragging our increasing luggage over cobbled streets. We now know Bologna to be a University town which explains the aimless wandering of many younguns – always in the opposite direction we were going! There was a protest march down the main street we were walking to station but judging by the ratio of heavily armed cop to scruffy youth this one would not get out of hand. Our train board displayed Platform 11 in plenty of time. Yay. Up and down two flights of stairs to join the throng. Then 10 mins before departure some clown in a grey uniform walks past a few people and says a few words in Italian and they started to move. No official announcements etc but luckily we asked someone passing and she informed us we were now leaving from platform 9 – the one we passed two flights of stairs ago! Anyway we left a few minutes late and the seats were the least salubrious so far but all was on track. A bit of train humour there.

We stopped at Fano ( go on say it a few times if u like) and GH1 (Gracious Host 1) Suzanne was waiting to greet us. GH2 (Earle) was waiting at the car so we were quickly able to offload our bags and wander the quiet streets of Fano before a great lunch at Osteria dalla Peppa. Yeah I thought they could have corrected the spelling for the occasion. As in Spain it was a clear demonstration of benefit of eating with the locals who know the best places and speak the lingo. It was then off to our digs for the next 3 nights – Ca le Cerque near Flashnhome, my ancestral home in Italy. I think it either means See the Circus or House of the Oak Tree. Given the lack of a big top, I will go with the latter. It is simply a beautiful home in a stunning and peaceful surrounding set atop a hill with rolling fields and green hills in all directions. It was going to be rough but I was up for the challenge. As favoured freeloaders we were given the top floor which is superbly equipped to lock yourself away from the world for as long as you wish. However we knew the wine was on the first floor! We may be slow but we ain’t dumb. Check out the Facebook page and do yourself a favour if ever in Italy, you won’t regret it

Ca Le Cerque

We had a relaxing afternoon tea out in the beautiful gardens before cleaning up and doing some washing before dinner. Earle was instantly elevated to Legend status when he handed me a beer that almost required gloves to hold. A cold beer at last! Could it get any better – after two more bottles of red I forget. Great food, great wine and great company? I may never leave .

And to complete today’s audiovisual extravaganza – yes GH1/2 even took us camera shopping and we got a salesman with ” I speak English” badge on. We are now tracking down ” We don’t speak Italian badges ”

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Day 20 – Blowing through Bologna

Posted: October 9, 2014 in Travel

Another good night sleep and hotel breakfast had us set up for the 6 hrs of training to do today. The day dawned booteeful of course because we would be on a train.

First part passed without incident as train arrived and left on time. Not quite as swank as first TGV train but very acceptable. Especially when Garçon arrived an hour into our trip to take our lunch order. Ok,not cheap but you can extend the budget to fill in long boring train trips. Only so much Roy and HG on loop a boy can take. The meal and wine were fine and we arrived on time so no hassles

Of course Milan is no different to any big station, they only let you know platform 10 mins max before leaving and then you have to find it. As it was we left 7 mins late but kept me tell you the Itie train was very nice indeed. It was grey and drizzly by now but this cleared by time we hit Bologna. The hotel was only a 10 min walk so we hoofed it with bags in tow – on very busy streets. The Hotel International was an oasis let me tell you. Looked nothing from outside but all that changed once inside. Our room is large and has everything you need – except a kettle!

We walked around Bologna for a couple of hours but didn’t grab me, very busy and crowded. The main square looks interesting and maybe less intrigued now as camera has died and just can’t take same photos with iPhone. We opted to see if swank hotel had swank bar and were not let down. The bartender seemed very efficient on point of OCD. We were only customers but he was constantly doing something behind bar rearranging glasses etc. On occasion though he would stop and pour himself a drink and disappear out back to drink it !

Bologna was really just a stop off point as could not get all the way to Fano in one day. As such it has been good to see another city but won’t be rushing back any time soon.

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Day 19 – Liaison with Lyon

Posted: October 8, 2014 in Travel

The usual more than adequate hotel breakfast set us up for our day trip to Lyon. After the disaster that was our last experience with French rail there were no great surprises that our train left 20 mins late for no apparent reason as was simply sitting in station 20 mins before leaving as well. On return trip though the inefficiency of the service played for us. We arrived at station at 1545 having to wait until 1640 for our prebooked tickets. The 1540 though was running well late as in at least 30 mins. We asked the SCNF lady could we go on the 1540 train instead. Thinking we were dills she said ” non, non it left 10 ago Monsieur” .” Check the board again Sweetheart ” oh ok, yes you can. You have a ticket , you can hop on any train” . Gee, I can’t possibly see what could go wrong with that system. Ironically the train left so late we arrived at our expected time had we caught the later one.! Of course no way it would have left on time.

But back to Lyon. Big town, with the lovely Rhone running through it. It was cloudy but not raining and we decided to skip the hop on hop off for about $50 and pick up two all day passes for public transport- including Metro and funicular! Worked a treat. So after a metro or two and a Funicular we were half way to the top of the hill and saw the Roman Ruins. Then carried on short walk up hill to the Notre Dame Cathedral which was of course quite stunning. As were the views of the city. Then it was a slow wander back down and into the old city before crossing the river to see the very impressive murals of notable figures that take up a whole building. We stopped for a very nice lunch before heading out to the famous Le Halles food halls. Classy stalls rather than the ones you would see in Queen Vic etc so not as interesting as we thought although seeing skinned chickens with head still attached may enter my dreams tonight.

Then it was the train debacle before arriving back home. Decided on a lightish meal of crepes nearby. The menu was not extensive , 4 types of “salty” , 3 of which included egg. I had the ham and cheese. The waitress was 83 , kinda a Ma and Pa establishment where Pa must have kicked it. However we also had a sweet crepe for dessert – Grand Marnier – which looked pretty boring until Dottie turned up with the whole bottle and literally poured it all over the crepe. Cleared up my asthma no worries!

Tomorrow it is off to Bologna . Nightmares tonight will either involve skinned chickens with head intact or the 20 minute window we have in Milan to switch trains from French to Itlian to continue to Bologna.

I hear Milan has lovely hotels…..

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Day 18 – Chuffed at Chambery

Posted: October 7, 2014 in Travel

Another beautifully prepared breakfast kicked the day off for what would be the longest drive – 4 hrs to Chambery. The first 30 m were the major concern of course. Grey skies but no real rain. Got out of Aix- En- Provence easily enough thanks to Tom Tom which really earnt his keep last 2 days. CLP had prepared expertly as usual in role of navigator but you can’t beat a GPS if things go pear shape. It simply recalculates a new route in seconds . Two petrol stops today , as have to return car full, and 3 Tolls but all worked well and the highways were flowing smoothly as usual.

Chambery Europcar did not open until 2 pm and of course was in a street with no parking. We tried to time our run well but were still 15 min early so simply double parked outside office like the 3 cars in front. Luckily hotel was just around corner. It was a painless exercise to hand car over and all seemed to run smoothly. Time will tell

Our room was ready in the Mecure and it was very pleasant and spacious on 5th floor with good soundproofing. We walked the town for a couple of hours but not a lot to see . Pleasant enough town though with some high end shops. The train station is just across the road so we picked up a couple of train tickets for tomorrow’s sojourn to Lyon and then had a couple of drinks in hotel bar. Then up to room to clean up before having dinner in the restaurant attached to hotel

Very glad to be able to hand car over and the stress has eased considerably

Or maybe it was those couple of beers….